Jungle Rats Button for previous image 18 of 26 Button for next image

 

As I leave the prison, I meet the four villagers of Dois Rios who want to guide me on the mountain trail. The friendly youngsters are sons of the prison employees. The most communicative of them, Ubirajara, still lives in the village with his mother and brothers, even after his father, who used to work at Cândido Mendes, passed away. For a while, Ubirajara studied on the mainland, but he has now returned to Ilha Grande. He likes the simple and tranquil life which gives him time to fish, surf, play soccer, and have fun with his friends. "The island is my paradise. Here I was born and here I dream to die."

During our walk on the narrow trail, which is surrounded by rocks and trees animated by the loud singing of cicadas, Ubirajara tells me about the past of this place. The stories start with the discovery of the island in 1502 when Tamoios and Guaianazes Indians were disputing this area for fishing. He tells me about the time that Ilha Grande was used by pirates to hide their ships inside its small bays when they were resting from their pillages. "Here, everybody believes that somewhere on the island, a buried treasure still exists."

After 40 minutes walking up hill, we arrive at the prison's water reservoir. From here, I have a perfect overview of the Caldron before the open sea. Isolated and lost in the middle of this majestic region it appears transformed into a small, crumpled garbage can. This image seems even more real after I see several urubus vultures flying in circles over inmates playing soccer in the prison patio.

While I photograph the view, Ubirajara sees something inside the water tank and calls it to my attention. Two big rats are drowned in the water that the prisoners use to survive. Exactly the same water used to make the grenadine juice, of which I drank three enjoyable cups two hours ago. With his machete, Ubirajara cuts two sticks from a tree, and uses them to drag out the rats. I observe that one of the animals has been in the water for so long that it has lost all its hair. "Don't worry, those are jungle rats and they will not cause you any illness.", says Ubirajara looking at me.

The boys then insist that we continue for a few more minutes up the trail until we reach a waterfall. Along the way, a friend of Ubirajara tells me about some interesting places on the island. Saco do Céu, Sky Bay, is one of them. The little bay received this name because on new moon nights the sky reflects in its water, giving the impression that the stars are floating.

Another place that he mentions, even though it is practically empty, is the village of Parnaióca, just a few beaches from Dois Rios. "Parnaióca village was once an animated place where more than one thousand people lived, but today...", the boy takes a deep breath and shakes his head demonstrating his sadness, and proceeds. "Today only three families are living over there. The village was abandoned, like a ghost town, because the fishermen were very fearful of the prisoners during the time when escapes were routine."

We finally arrive at the waterfall and refresh ourselves in one of the natural pools formed by the stones. The boys lay resting on the warm rocks, while I walk a little more up the mountain along a trail that follows the waterfall. I am amazed and intrigued. Shortly, I hear the rustle of bushes being agitated inside the jungle and immediately think about the Caldron's fugitive who might be hiding somewhere inside this vegetation. Curious, I try to discover what had caused the noise and I see, in one tree, three monkeys who innocently move themselves, worried by my presence.

Button for previous imageButton for next image
Above: Inside the prison's water tank Ubirajara drags out drowned rats.

STORY INDEX STORY IMAGES

SITE INDEX INTRODUCTION GALLERY CHRONOLOGY BIOGRAPHY CONTACT f8 HOME